Dear Germany,
I apologize. Really. This is not one of those half-hearted
apologies born of cowardice, convenience or diplomacy. This is an
honest-to-goodness, get down on my knees, "baby-will-you-please take me
back" apology. I must admit - I was wrong.
I wish I could erase all the skeptical glances, the awkward moments and the
jealous thoughts, but really all I can do is apologize. It's not that I
didn't find you attractive at first. In fact, I admired you from afar,
marveling at your form, your intellect and resolve. But I must admit, I
was also a bit intimidated by your strength and occasionally suspicious of your
checkered past. I never mentioned this to anyone because it seemed a bit
unfair. From what I could tell, you'd turned over a new leaf and everyone
deserves a second chance, right? But sometimes you have to find out for
yourself. Well, I finally did, and now I have a new secret to
confess.
Germany, you vixen, you've stolen my heart. The last time I left my heart somewhere, it was in San Francisco, where both it and I have
resided for the better part of a decade now. Yet as I set out for
Germany on the eve of the World Cup, I was
unsure what to expect me upon my arrival in Dusseldorf. Come to find out, what
awaited me was a trip that was both incredibly entertaining and full of the
following epiphanies:
1. "Ein pils bitte" are three of the sweetest words
in any language and also three of the most efficient. One of the glories
of drinking in
Germany
is that you can go into any establishment and simply say "Ein pils
bitte", secure in the knowledge that you'll receive an excellent brew,
generally of the local variety. (Of course, don't completely neglect the
weissbeer). If this were true of American pubs, the sanity of bartenders
everywhere would be preserved and you wouldn't have to wait for a small
eternity while the woman ahead of you debates the merits of Heineken and Amstel
Light.
2. Weltmeisterschaft and Weltmeterschaft are two different
things. Both things to be proud of, but very different.
Weltmeisterschaft means World Cup in German. Weltmeterschaft, doesn't mean
anything really, except, maybe, world's long shaft. If you're going to
confuse the two, as I did, it's best to avoid doing it at high volume in a
German restaurant.
3. With a sufficient amount of trial-and-error, I am capable
of reading a train schedule, in a foreign language no less. The day I
caught the train in Nuremberg, and successfully
switched at Frankfurt (twice) Dortmund and Dusseldorf was one of the
proudest days of my life. If only my mama could have seen me.
4. A man can't live on beer and brats alone. You have
to toss in a donor kebab every now and then, preferably around 3 o'clock in the
morning. Nothing, I mean nothing on God's green earth hits the spot at 3
AM better than a donor kebab. The first person to open up a donor kebab
stand in my neighborhood will die a wealthy man.
5. Speaking of which, 3 AM is basically the crack of dawn in
northern Germany.
There'll be no sleeping in late here, unless you're from Stockholm, Alaska,
or have curtains made of lead.
6. "Vie Geits Alter" is apparently a viable
translation of "What's up, Gangsta?, at least according to a
Turkish-German hip-hop fan we stumbled into on the streets of
Cologne. Exactly how this topic came up
remains clouded in a pilsner-induced haze, but this translation was confirmed
at a later date by a German with a degree in North American studies. It's
always good to have an academic weigh in on 50 Cent.
7. Attending football matches dressed as superheroes is a
great, self-deprecating way to the edge off anti-Americanism. Consider it
Justice League diplomacy. It will, however, mean a three-hour walk to the
stadium as you're stopped every ten feet to pose for photos and conduct
interviews with foreign fans and international news organizations.
8. In continental Europe,
ATMs are not always precise when assessing how much money remains in an
American checking account. So, if you ever find yourself hard up for cash
in a foreign country and think there's no money left to withdraw, well, you may
not want to admit defeat so easily. Just know that there will be a
reckoning when you return to the States.
9. The German penchant for innovative design extends into the
bathroom. While most toilets in the western world operate under the same basic
principle: that your deposit either lands directly in a small pool of water at
the bottom of the bowl, or make its way there after sliding down a sloped surface,
German toilet technology is decidedly different. Here, your offering
lands on a completely dry horizontal shelf positioned just beneath your
posterior. Repeated flushings and vigorous use of the toilet brush are
then required to dispose of the evidence, although these measures do little to
extinguish the olfactory traces of your dirty work. Noting the German
reputation for exceeding practicality and design excellence, I knew there must
be a logical reason for this. As it turns out the design is meant to
facilitate examination of one's stool, the better to preserve gastrointestinal
health. Apparently the expression "ignorance is bliss" doesn't
translate into German.
10. It never hurts to get a second opinion on the validity of
national toasts. After hearing us hoist beers to a chorus of
"Prosts", one native prankster intervened to tell us that while most
foreigners believed this to be the standard German toast, the traditional
saying was not "Prost", but "Prost-ta-ta", which we
subsequently discovered means absolutely nothing or "hooray for
boobies".
The mischief of this one prankster not withstanding, it should be noted that
the Germans were unfailingly helpful during our visit despite the fact that our
rather large traveling party - which peaked at 14 members - boasted a
cumulative four years of high school German, all of which rested in the cranium
of one Greg Nelson, the erstwhile leader of our merry band. Besides
acting as the organizational dean of the group, Greg, a.k.a. "American
Schumacher" also acquitted himself exceptionally well on the roads of
Germany, negotiating the Autobahn with a car packed so full the passengers were
nearly immobile and the rearview mirror was nothing but a useless ornament.
Greg was no doubt aided by the fact that our rental car was a Mercedes station
wagon, a gem of a car for which the clerk at the rental agency actually felt
compelled to apologize. Apparently they were all out of Ford Tauruses and
late model Chevy Impalas. For our part, we were quite happy to tour in
style through the German countryside, which was pleasant in a comforting,
non-exotic way surprisingly reminiscent of
Central
Pennsylvania. We were less pleased by the hip-hop on German
radio, which was surprisingly reminiscent of the Clear Channel hegemony we're
subjected to back home. Sometimes, even when you get away, you can't
really get away.
Fortunately, our friend, Christian Manders, had the foresight to bring along an
iPod adapter that plugged neatly into the car stereo, allowing us to insulate
ourselves in a cocoon of carefully constructed playlists. As we sped
along to the nostalgic sounds of old school rap, the freshly minted warblings
of indy rockers and the reassuring strains of all-time road trip classics like
"Country Roads", I couldn't but help but notice the contrast between
the crisp organization of our impromptu sing-alongs and the ragged, if
spirited, chants belted out by US supporters at the matches we attended.
While the sizable number of US fans in Germany, a contingent that dwarfed
the turnout for Korea 2002, was a promising indicator of the sport's growth
stateside, development of the game's cultural component is lagging far behind
fan interest. This much is clear: we need a new song. Actually, we
need a song, period. Really, we need three or four, but as the wise man said,
long journey begins with first step.
The old standby U-S-A, U-S-A conjures up fond memories for the 35-and-over
"Miracle on Ice really means something to me crowd" and is suitably
militant for international misadventures. However, it is also decidedly
unmelodic and lacks the creativity befitting a country that was the birthplace
of bluegrass, jazz, show tunes, rock-n-roll, hip-hop and Ashlee Simpson.
It's times like these when the
US
could benefit from the type of cultural commission that prevails in countries
like France.
If the French were in this predicament, they would simply authorize a taskforce
to oversee the creation of a catchy new national tune.
On the other hand, similarly bureaucratic measures in America would
most likely result in something completely inoffensive and absolutely
unlovable. The US
requires an organic, rousing national song - one of the people, by the people
and for the people. Given this, there is only place to turn: You Tube,
the last untrammeled bastion of democracy and grassroots expression. Start a
contest for the best song, toss a few dollars and the promise of fleeting
celebrity into the mix and let the Internet hordes have at it.
I think it's fair to say that the US will not have arrived as a true
soccer power until we have a repertoire of songs that fans know by heart and
can belt out effortlessly. When that day comes, we'll know that a true
soccer culture has taken hold in the US. Until then, we'll have to
make do with fumbling attempts at musicality that fizzle after one or two
verses. This is a shame, because there's no shortage of music in the
American sporting heritage. True, most of the songs are inspired by
college football and not the international kind, but taking a traditional art
form and adapting it to suit our current needs is a grand old American
tradition, so why stop now? Couldn't we all put aide our partisan
differences once every four years and agree on a re-working of "Hail to
the Victors", "The Notre Dame Victory March" or "Fight On
(USC)" as our national football/soccer song? Just change a few
select words and you're good to go. Or, in the case of "Hail to the
Victors", you can leave in choice lines like "leaders and best"
and "conquerors of the west". Our Mexican friends will
appreciate that.
One of the great things about these songs is that they provide an easy way to
bond, but also a means of inspiring your side without taunting the other.
This is important because it's extremely difficult for an American sporting
crowd to celebrate the home team without demeaning the opposition.
There's an undercurrent of antagonism to most chants in the US - even our songs are called "Fight
Songs", which I suppose neatly captures the unlikely blend of friendliness
and aggression that is so characteristic of America. While that doesn't
matter so much when Browns fans are slashing the tires of Steelers faithful
outside of Cleveland Stadium or whatever they call it since they were awarded
an expansion franchise, it takes on broader implications at the world's most
eagerly anticipated and widely-watched event.
As I took to telling to the group in my rare sober moments, "At the World
Cup, we are all diplomats". This pronouncement inevitably preceded
some act of boorishness that did more to reinforce the Ugly American stereotype
than 20 years of foreign policy fiascos, but at least my heart was in the right
place. Being an American soccer fan abroad puts you in the precarious
position of the prettiest woman at the bar, or the celebrity dining at a
restaurant in some mid-sized American city. Everyone else has already
formed an opinion about you and one false move - even in the face of a hundred
good deeds - will serve to reinforce their negative impression. Fail to
return the glance of the lush who has been staring you down for the past
half-hour, or honor the 137th autograph request of the evening and that pretty
much confirms your status as Grade-A jag-off. Similarly, all it takes is
one ill-advised comment to stoke the fires of anti-American sentiment and erase
the efforts of hundreds of your compatriots who are struggling mightily to find
the right mix of bonhomie and humility.
Thus, supporting the American team can at times be a delicate balancing exact
between passionate embrace of the national team and whatever concessions to
diplomacy sports fanaticism allows. Or, alternatively, you can just adopt
the old English football chant "No one likes us and we don't care",
as one group of supporters did before the US-Italy clash in Kaiserslautern. These fans were,
however, decidedly in the minority. For the most part, the American
contingent managed to offer spirited, yet inoffensive support of the national
team. You'd hope someone would notice favorably, but there's just no
pleasing some people.
Two days after the US-Italy match, the Guardian, one of theUK's most
prominent papers, managed to identify some of the most brain-dead American
fans, interview them and highlight their quotes in an extraordinarily derisive
column headlined: "Overexcited, Overweight and Over Here". As
your humble, and relatively slender (some might say scrawny) correspondent, I
must object to the title. Overexcited - very likely. But,
overweight - I don't think so. I found American supporters to be a rather
svelte lot on the whole. Of course, horizontal red-and-white stripes
aren't exactly flattering to the figure, but you do what you can for your
country.
Americans have never been shy about flying the flag , or wearing it, but the
same can't be said of Germans, who have taken an understandably muted approach
to patriotic displays - until now that is. Walking around a German city
during the World Cup was to bear witness to a national coming-out party.
Everywhere you turned, the red, black and gold of the German flag was in
evidence and the air was filled with the boisterous chants of "Wir gehen
nach Berlin" ("We're going to Berlin") - the site
of the World Cup finals. The exuberance of the Germans was infectious and
completely in contrast to their somewhat undeserved reputation for
severity. As we traveled from Munich to Dusseldorf to
Dortmund to Hamburg to Cologne to Berlin to Hanover to Nuremberg and many places
between, we had the good fortune of seeing an entire country on an extended
holiday of sorts. These are not people who don't know how to have
fun. It wasn't exactly Carnivale in Rio,
but then I doubt the pilsner is as good on Ipanema.
Still, even though the mood was decidedly festive, there was also an
undercurrent of feeling that suggested the celebration was more than just a
party. It was as if the entire populace was throwing off the shackles of
restraint and enforced humility and joyously announcing, "We've arrived
and we're not going to hang our heads or speak in hushed tones any
longer." For a few weeks, it was almost like the American fans and
the Germans switched places. A fan in Hamburg summed it up best. The man,
who was in his early-to-mid forties, recalled the discomfort he sometimes felt
when traveling abroad as a youth, noting that years ago, "People would ask
where we were from and we would say "Oh, we're German (in a whisper), now
we say "We're German!" (booming voice and emphatic fist pump).
From my perspective, Germany has good reason to shout: bars that stay open to
all hours, liberal open container laws (or the complete lack thereof), a
plentitude of good, cheap beer, attractive women, friendly, helpful citizens, a
wealth of inviting outdoor cafes, good, cheap beer, attractive women, an
amazing mix of architecture that artfully and successfully weaves daring new
buildings amongst structures hundreds of years old, good, cheap beer, the
Autobahn, attractive women, marvelously efficient public transportation, a
thriving art scene, some of the best graffiti I've ever seen anywhere and good,
cheap beer. It's true, the toilets could use a little work, but when
that's the worst thing you can say about a country, you know it's doing
something right. Prost Germany,
I'm sorry I ever doubted you.
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